Erfurt, Schmalkalden, Lauscha - June 18

Erfurt is the capital city of the state of Thuringia with a population of 200,000.  It was in the east German side until 1989. 

On Monday Morning June 18 we lost Janan Baer Massey.  Actually not¸ but she did have to leave the trip early because of her work requirements and we were very sorry to see her depart. Annie Sprenger and Janan left today to take a train to Frankfurt from which Janan will fly back to Los Angeles which sounds like a pretty good deal since some of us drove 500 miles to Mpls, then made two connections (Cleveland and Newark) before departing on the flight to Berlin. Annie knows her way around in the transportation system so well – she is kindly escorting Janan to her departure gate before returning to the trip with us.  No stringent German stoicism about this experience as Janan and a few of us resisted not the flow of emotions and tears during her goodbye comments. Yes we have come a long way.

This morning we took a  winding ride through the Thuerengen Forest to  Schmalkalden. We had to walk up to another Schloss, the Willhelmsburg, but much easier than at the Wartburg. We were met there by Ute Schuetze, nee Katzung, and her friend Georg. We were taken on a tour of the Schloss which included the chapel with the oldest wood pipe organ in Europe.. It was a treat to hear it played. Georg explained that the chapel was built as Luther wanted, the Altar – to receive the Sacraments from God, the pulpit directly above it – to hear the Word, and above it, the organ – to send your prayers to heaven with music. A highlight for the Katzungs was the closet taken from Ute’s house and now is in the Museum. Seeing the kitchen brought back memories of the first Katzung trip in 1995. It was in this kitchen that we held our farewell dinner from that trip. We then got a glimpse of the Iwein fresco, a story in pictures.

Schmalkalden - Schloss Castle chapel pipe organ with wood pipes

We quickly went to St Georg’s church, where Valentine Katzung was baptized. Martin Luther preached there twice and sometimes observed services from the room above that the pastor showed us. Everyone saw the very tall swing in the church’s center aisle. You may also have spotted the pastor offering up a prayer that John would not see the swing and want to swing to the ceiling! The logical explanation for the swing is that the church should be a part of your entire life from beginning to end, not just on occasion when we happen to make it to church, especially here in Europe.

St Georg Church where Valentine Katzung was baptized

Alice on the "swing" in St. Georg Church

Ute showed us the house where she was born and another Katzung house that is being restored. 

Katzung house in Schmalkalden

It was time to eat then, so we went to the restaurant at the Waldhotel Ehrental to have a grilled lunch. We were met there by Helene Bohrmke, nee Katzung. The Katzung tours stayed at this hotel in 1995 and 1999.

Our bus driver Dietmer (left) and tour guide Xenia

In the afternoon, we drove to a glass blowing factory in Lauscha.  Frankly, some portions of that trip felt like we were in Colorado--winding roads through some low mountain areas where pine trees covered the landscape.

Furnace at the glassblowing factory where raw materials are melted for drawing glass tubes and rods

Intermediate product of glass rods and tubes to be used later for glass blowing

This factory included the entire process of melting raw materials, producing colored rods and tubes as well as some glass blowing.  The company also contracted with other artists to do glass blowing.  The gallery and retail store had some beautiful pieces and some came with a significant price tag.  Our group did provide the company some business.


The evening was open for us to find dinner on our own.  Many from the group found a unique shopping area where the shops were built on  a set of bridges with a stream passing under. When we strolled down the street built on the bridges, we had no idea we were on a bridge.  Wes was so happy to get off the bus that we found him walking on water next to the bridge. Actually he just says that he feet were hot, the water was shallow and it seemed like the thing to do to get across to the other side of the stream to see what was over there. Wes has not walked on water for quite some time now. His wife, Maxine, makes sure he stays grounded, to be sure.

Wes walking on water near the bridge of the market street

Notice in the picture above that floor of the building itself is the upper level of the bridge over the stream. Very functional and effective, and it has been standing there for a real long time. Don't ask how long,


We had a wonderful traditional German "Italian" meal at a traditional Italian restaurant all as a group. We pulled tables together and caused quite a scene, but the staff honored our wishes as the business seems to be slow this time of year by comparison. Most had some form of pizza or pasta that looked and tasted very good. 


But one member of the group had an ordeal for dinner. His name shall remain anonymous, but his feet are still wet from the walk.  Anyway he ordered his favorite meal, squid or calamarie on the menue. Not expecting what he got in the slightest, this dinner came out to him with three very big squid that filled a very large plate and they were whole folks. I mean really whole. the body, the head, the tenacles  - everything was there. Not a problem to the guy with wet feet, but the smell -- oh my goodness, it had a really bad fishy smell to it which drove everyone away from that side of the table. 

Much to everyone's surprise, the three big, whole squids got eaten to the very last morsal, but literally no one wanted a taste. How insulting and lacking of adventure is that? Wet feet and smelly, but good tasting octopus, Wow, what a meal. Skept real good that night, but can't remember the room description the hotel or the bathroom at all. Memory is getting very poor as things all blend together.